IMAGE: Yi Lu/Corbis Images
I don’t believe I’m the only one who gets confused with skincare
steps. We all know that you start with a cleanser and somewhere along
the line end with a moisturiser. As a rule of thumb, always apply the
most water-based product in each category first, before proceeding to
creamier oil-based versions. But if you’re still confused about what
goes where, I decode the most commonly used products and the steps in
which to slather them on.
STEP 1: CleansingIf you use an all-in-one
cleanser, you can skip this entire paragraph. But for the adventurous,
always start with an oil-based cleanser before you move on to your
water-based ones (this includes foams, gels and everything in between).
Oil-based cleaners have a lower density and they also work to sweep the
dirt and grime off the surface of your skin ─ giving water-based
cleansers an easier time to clean up after.
STEP 2: Lotions, toners, essences, and the worksFrom
toners to essence and thermal waters, this second step is the most
confusing of any skincare regime. The products that fall into this
category are those that help to clean off cleansing residue while
prepping your skin for future products. Toners and watery lotions are
the most common feature in this step, but essences, thermal waters, and
softeners fall here as well.
As a rule of thumb, use your toner or lotion first as these help to
prep your skin for future products. Once that is done, you can begin
layering your thermal waters and softeners, always following the
guidelines of water-based items
before oil.
STEP 3: MasksFor the occasional pick-me-up,
masks work to give your skin an added boost. I usually apply face masks
after step 2, as my skin is well-prepped to receive nutrients. The only
exception to this rule is if you are using a sleeping mask or a
detoxifier (clay masks fall into this category); sleeping masks should
be used at the end of your regime, while detoxifiers should be used
after your face is cleansed (so your toner and lotion can sweep off any
clay residue!)
Otherwise, when you’re using a regular mask, remember to pat the excess essence into your face before going back to your regime.
STEP 4: Eye CreamI like to apply my eye creams
here, before my fingers get filled with face creams. After all, I
wouldn’t want moisturisers to be in the sensitive areas around my eyes.
Rich creams can cause problems such as milia seeds, so make sure your
hands are free from oily facial products when dabbing on your eye
creams. Alternatively, you can apply this product as at the last step of
your facial regime; just make sure your hands are clean!
STEP 5: SerumsMy favourite part of the entire
regime, serums hold the highest amount of active ingredients for your
face. If you have more than one serum, be sure that you apply the
water-based option first, then layer on creamy serums after. If you are
mixing an oil into your serum, massage into your face and let it sit for
five minutes before proceeding to the next step. As oil can make it
difficult for water-based moisturisers to enter the skin, so it is vital
to give it sufficient time for full absorption
STEP 6: Spot TreatmentsHyperpigmentation or
acne? If certain areas need more attention, spot treatments can be
slotted in here. Spot treatments are often creamier than serums but not
as thick as moisturisers. Applying them now will ensure optimum
absorption, increasing the efficacy of the products. If you’re worried
that your moisturiser will “smear” the spot treatment all over your
face, just give it time to absorb.
STEP 7: MoisturisersSlather on your creamy
moisturisers and emulsions here. Likewise, if you have more than one
moisturiser, be sure to apply the more liquid one first. Applying it the
other way round may make your water-based moisturiser sit on your skin
(clogging pores in the process!).
Once that is done, sunscreen or sunblock can follow in the day, and the occasional sleeping mask for the night.
You might be wondering, “If I’m applying all the water-based products
before the oil-based in each step, wouldn’t that mean that the
water-based products in the next step get obstructed?”. Not necessarily.
Companies create facial products with the knowledge that they are a
part of a regime, so products are made to accommodate this process; for
example, serums absorb into your skin faster than moisturisers.